Wallet pizza, the "queen" of the streets

by Federico D'Addato

The "Naples to tasteIs undoubtedly very rich, the Danube, the babà, the pastiera, the sfogliatelle and above all the Margherita Pizza are part of the charm of this city and the wallet pizza can not be outdone.

Wallet pizza, the "queen" of the streets
The wallet pizza is so called because it is folded in on itself

The development of the phenomenon of "street food", lo streetfood, to be consumed preferably while walking or in short breaks from work, study or to take a breath after a sightseeing tour, seems to have touched very little the city of Naples, which was used to to the circumstance well before it went mainstream.

Omelettes, crocché and pizza a wallet are just some of the dishes that are easy to find in the streets of Old Town and that help to make tourists and citizens of the city fall in love.

What is wallet pizza?

Also called "a letter" or "younger sister”Of traditional pizza, wallet pizza is an integral part of Neapolitan street food.

The definition "portfolio" is given thanks to size of food, more little obviously one Margherita Pizza or a classic marinara and then served bent over on itself, remembering precisely the shape of a booklet.

The price varies between 1 e 2 EUR but the quality and the procedure for making this culinary work of art is almost identical to the "older sister“.

History of wallet pizza

Matilde Serao, wife of Edoardo Scarfoglio founder de The morning, in one of his works called "The belly of Naples" he tried to reconstruct the origin of Neapolitan street food.

From what it was possible to discover then we consider the Port'Alba Pizzeria, born in 1738, as the "mum"Of the pizza in the wallet.

"The pizzaiuolo who has a shop, in the night, makes a large number of these round flatbreads, of a dense dough, which burns but does not cook, loaded with almost raw tomatoes, garlic, pepper, oregano: these pizzas in many sectors for a penny, they are entrusted to a boy, who goes to sell them in some street corner, over a street stall and stays there almost all day.

There are also slices of two cents, for children who go to school; when the supply is finished, the pizza maker supplies it, until nighttime.

There are also, for the night, some boys who wear a large convex shield of tin on their heads, inside which these slices of pizza stand and go around the alleys and give a special cry, saying that they have pizza with tomatoes and tomatoes. garlic, with muzzarella and salted anchovies.

The poor women sitting on the lower step buy and have dinner, that is, they have lunch with this penny of pizza ”.

It can be read in the text of Serao.

However, today a very hypothetical version of the origin of the dish appears since then the pizzas were sold "as street food", but they were large slices single, not "portfolio".

Wallet pizza and Bill Clinton

On a media level, one of the situations that led the pizza portfolio to be known a world level was undoubtedly the G7 of the 1994 held in Naples.

Bill Clinton, At that time president of the USA, was immortalized in a shot that portrays him while he is enjoying the pizza in question which from that moment becomes a must for every tourist.

Wallet pizza, the "queen" of the streets
The then president of the United States Bill Clinton intent on eating a pizza from Di Matteo at the G7 in Naples

THE ties between Naples and the United States are very old and deep and one cannot say that the food is a marginal component in this link.

We arrive in recent times, in 2014 when Egidio Cerrone, more famous as Puok and Med, thanks to a sensational video-spot, further publicized the queen of Neapolitan street food and the culinary culture of the city.


The belly of Naples by Matilde Serao

G7 in Naples

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